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Diamond Hand

Diamond Hand

Diamond Shapes

It is important not to confuse the terms diamond "shape" and "cut". The shape is the geometrical form of the diamond such as round, heart or princess, while the cut refers to the precise angles and alignment of the facets and the way they affect the beauty and brilliance of the polished stone.

Contrary to popular belief and perhaps your experience in most shops, fancy-shaped diamonds (as all non-round diamonds are called) are often less expensive than round brilliants because the cutters are able to retain more weight from the rough diamond crystal.

Round Brilliant

Rounds are the most popular shape that diamonds are cut into and account for more than 75 percent of all diamond purchases. It is also the most brilliant of all the cuts. You may have heard of a term called "Ideal Cut". This term refers to the attempt to cut a diamond into the best proportions to achieve maximum brilliance.

The modern round brilliant consists of 58 facets (or 57 if the culet is excluded); 33 on the crown (the top half above the middle or girdle of the stone) and 25 on the pavilion (the lower half below the girdle). In recent decades, most girdles are faceted. Many girdles have 32, 64, 80, or 96 facets; these facets are not counted in the total.

If you are looking to tie the knot, the round brilliant cut diamond encompasses beauty and is usually the perfect cut for engagement and wedding rings. The round brilliant cut diamond offers unsurpassed brilliance and sparkle, provided that it is cut to certain specifications. If you would like to have optimum fire and brilliance without having to spend a fortune Diamond Manufacturers recommends a diamond with a very good cut, polish and symmetry. Click here to view our extensive inventory of very good cut round brilliant diamonds.

If you are looking for a good quality round diamond but have a tight budget, click here to view our low price selection of round brilliant diamonds.

Princess

The Princess cut is the most popular shape after the round and the preferred square cut shape over radiant. The princess cut diamond is a square brilliant cut diamond with sharp, uncut corners. It is generally more square in shape than rectangular, and accentuates a diamond's fire rather than its luster. The diameter of the princess cut is usually smaller than that of a round cut with the same carat weight, and the length is usually longer than that of a round cut. The princess cut is sometimes referred to as a square modified brilliant, as it combines the brilliance of a round cut with an overall square or rectangular appearance. A princess cut diamond does sacrifice some brilliance in order to have its unique square shape however.

By design, the princess cut diamond has approximately 76 facets which add to the brilliance and fire and help it rival the visual performance of a well cut round brilliant. Extra facets are common on princess cut diamonds, especially in the tips where the cutters have to work harder to produce a sharp corner free of extensive abrasions. A princess cut diamond ring is very flattering to a hand with long fingers. For a princess diamond shape that is square, look for length-to-width ratios between 1 and 1.05. If you prefer more of a rectangular shape, look for length-to-width ratios between 1.10 and 1.20.

If you love the fire of the traditional Round Brilliant Cut (the standard diamond engagement ring cut), but want something a little different or simply fancy a square stone, the princess cut diamond is in a class of its own. Most square or rectangular cuts just don't live up to the round brilliant for sparkle, but the Princess Cut was designed for getting maximum brilliance from a square cut. Always ensure that the setting for your princess cut diamond protects the four pointed corners -- these are the points most likely to chip (and why most rectangular or square diamond cuts have cropped corners).

We strongly recommend you to avoid princess cut diamonds with shallow crown heights of only a few percent. A large percentage of princess cut diamonds look flat and lack in luster because the table facets are too large and the crown height is too shallow. Please beware that while a round diamond with a colour grade of I or J could still look colourless depending on numerous factors, a princess cut diamond will most probably show colour tints, specially on the corners. At Diamond Manufacturers we only showcase princess cut diamonds which have been cut to maximize their fire and brilliance. We recommend you to choose princess cut diamonds with a minimum colour of H, clarity of VS2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of premium quality princess cut diamonds.

If you are looking for a good quality princess cut diamond but have a tight budget look for a stone with a minimum colour of I, clarity of SI2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of princess cut diamonds with the best balance of quality and cost.

Princess          

L ÷ W =  1.00  1.10  1.25    

Preferred ratio: 1.00    

 Most princess cut diamonds are square or very close to square, with a perfect 1.00 or 1.10 ratio. This ensures a square outline when set. If a distinct rectangular shape is preferred, look for a ratio of 1.25 to 1.50.

Emerald

This rectangular shape is a step cut. It has fewer facets than a brilliant cut and is most attractive in simple designs. Inclusions and inferior color may be more pronounced in this cut; higher grades of colour and clarity are recommended.

This is a rectangular shape with cut corners. It is known as a step cut because its concentric broad, flat planes resemble stair steps. The number of facets in an emerald cut may vary from 50 to 58.

When purchasing an emerald cut diamond, it's extremely important to pay attention to quality and to select the highest grade stone you can afford. Because of the "openess" of the cut, flaws, colour weakness, and a poor cut are more evident to the naked eye than a cut such as the round brilliant. It is also essential to understand that emerald cut diamonds have less sparkle than other diamond shapes. The good news is, emerald cut diamonds are not as "traditional" as the round brilliant or as trendy as the princess cut -- making their pricing extremely economical when compared to the more common cuts. Diamond Manufacturers recommends to look for emerald cut diamonds with a minimum colour of H, clarity of VS2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of premium quality emerald cut diamonds.

If you are looking for a good quality emerald cut diamond but have a tight budget look for a stone with a minimum colour of I, clarity of SI1, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of emerald cut diamonds with the best balance of quality and cost.

Emerald              

L ÷ W =  1.20  1.40  1.50  1.75  2.00    

Preferred ratio: 1.40    

 The emerald cut looks most elegant at a 1.40 (or approximate range of 1.30 to 1.50) ratio. This outline emphasizes the beautiful parallel line facets and blocked corners.

Marquise

Featuring an elongated shape and pointed ends, the marquise cut diamond can often look larger than other shapes of the same carat weight.

If you are looking for a diamond cut that will stand out in the crowd and be easily noticed, consider the marquise cut diamond. The marquise cut diamond is considered a fancy shape by most standards and buyers. The marquise cut diamond can be characterized as a boat shaped brilliant stone. Because of its unique shape it usually demands to be the center of attention. The standard number of facets is 58, but can have a varying number of pavilion main facets ranging from 4, 6, or 8.

When choosing a Marquise, take care to look for sharp edges and pointed ends that increase the risk of damage to the stone. Also long narrow stones are more likely to break. Another important consideration is to make sure the angles of the diamond have been properly cut to avoid a "bow tie effect". The bow-tie effect is when a bow-tie shaped dark area on the diamond occurs, usually as the result of improperly cut angles.

When choosing a marquise diamond, it extremely important to note the overall clarity and colour of the diamond. Due to the shape of the marquise cut diamond, the color and clarity will be more apparent. Unlike round cut diamonds that are less noticeable when it comes to colour and clarity, a marquise cut diamond's colour and clarity should be of very high quality standards in regards to its color and clarity.

If you are looking for an extremely fancy cut diamond that is sure to please, choose the marquise cut diamond. Diamond Manufacturers suggests that you choose a marquise cut diamond with a minimum colour of H, clarity of SI1 and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of premium quality marquise cut diamonds.

If you are looking for a good quality marquise cut diamond but have a tight budget look for a stone with a minimum colour of I, clarity of SI2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of marquise cut diamonds with the best balance of quality and cost.

Marquise              

L ÷ W =  1.60  1.80  2.00  2.25  2.50    

Preferred ratio: 2.00 | Range: 1.945-2.055    

 The marquise is usually cut to a 2.00 ratio (or approximate Range of 1.75 to 2.25). This ratio gives the shape a distinct length and elegance, but provides a good balance of width that is very pleasing to the eye. Very short and wide (less than 1.50) may be difficult to tell apart from an oval, and extremely long and thin (2.50 or more) may lack brilliance and be very difficult to set properly.

Oval

The oval cut diamond is a modified version of the round brilliant cut. An even, perfectly symmetrical design popular among women with small hands or short fingers. Its elongated shape gives a flattering illusion of length to the hand.

For people that are looking for characteristics similar to the round "ideal cut", but would like a diamond that is more unique to fit their style and tastes, the oval cut diamond is an excellent choice. The oval cut diamond is configured similarly to the round cut. The standard number of facets is 56, but can have a varying number of pavilion main facets ranging from 4, 6, or 8.

If you are looking for more direction than just personal preference, a high quality oval cut diamond should have a length to width ratio of 1.5:1. If the oval cut diamond's ratio is greater than 1.5:1, you will probably notice an undesirable effect called the bow-tie. The bow-tie effect is when a bow-tie shaped dark area on the oval cut diamond occurs usually as the result of improperly cut angles. The oval cut diamond should also have an elliptical shape when viewed from the top of the diamond.

Typical oval cut diamonds reflect light brilliantly and are usually at their best when there is no color at all. As with all fancy shapes, potential buyers should look at the overall clarity and color of the stone. The clarity and color is much more important to the oval cut diamond than the round cut diamond because impurity and inclusions can be much easier to spot. If you are looking for a diamond cut that is similar to the round cut diamond's characteristics but still is unique in shape, the oval cut diamond should be extremely appealing. Diamond Manufacturers recommends an oval cut diamond with a minimum colour of G, clarity of VS2 and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of premium quality oval cut diamonds.

If you are looking for a good quality oval cut diamond but have a tight budget look for a stone with a minimum colour of H, clarity of SI2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of oval cut diamonds with the best balance of quality and cost.

 

Oval              

L ÷ W =  1.20  1.40  1.50  1.75  2.00    

Preferred ratio: 1.50    

 Oval cut diamonds are usually most pleasing at a 1.50 ratio (or approximate Range of 1.35 to 1.65). This makes the outline elongated enough to be different from a round, but not so long that it could be confused with a marquise.

Pear

Resembling a teardrop, this hybrid cut combines the best of an oval and a marquise. The pear cut diamond is one of the most difficult shapes to cut and is often used for pendants and earrings. In a ring, this shape diamond is especially flattering to a hand with small or average-length fingers. The pear cut diamond is a modification of the traditional and extremely popular round cut. Beyond its unique and obvious beauty, this cut also offers the owner fantastic brilliance and sparkle similar in characteristic to the round cut diamond. If you love the brilliance and fire of the round cut diamond, but would like to choose a unique shape that goes well with your style and sensibilities, one of the more interesting diamond cuts that you should look into is the pear shaped cut diamond. The standard number of facets of a pear shape cut diamond is 58, but can have a varying number of pavilion facets ranging from 4, 6, 7, or 8.

If you are interested in the pear cut diamond, one of the factors you should consider is the overall impression that the cut makes, including various aspects such as size, shape and clarity. The pear cut is obviously different in cut compared to the marquise cut, however they both are prone to undesirable traits including the bow-tie effect. The bow-tie effect is when a bow-tie shaped dark area on the pear or marquise cut diamond occurs, usually as the result of improperly cut angles. Diamond Manufacturers suggests that you choose a pear cut diamond with a minimum colour of H, clarity of SI1 and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of premium quality pear cut diamonds.

If you are looking for a good quality pear cut diamond but have a tight budget look for a stone with a minimum colour of I, clarity of SI2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of pear cut diamonds with the best balance of quality and cost.

 

Pear              

L ÷ W =  1.20  1.40  1.60  1.75  2.00    

Preferred ratio: 1.60    

 The optimum ratio for a pear-shaped diamond is about 1.60 (or a range of approximately 1.50 to 1.70). This ensures that the outline has enough length to be elegant. A pear-shaped diamond that is very short and wide (less than 1.30), or too long and narrow (2.00 or more), may result in less brilliance or may be difficult to set properly.

Heart                          

This ultimate symbol of romance is essentially a pear-shaped diamond with a cleft at the top. The skill of the cutter determines the beauty of the cut. The standard number of facets of a heart shape cut diamond is 59, but can have a varying number of pavilion facets ranging from 4, 6, 7, or 8.

If you are looking for a unique and fancy cut diamond, one of the most unique cuts to choose from is the heart cut diamond. The heart cut diamond is a great way to distinguish your diamond from other popular cuts and still add beautiful brilliance and fire to your diamond. Many heart cuts are used in necklaces as well as rings and matching earrings. Unlike most cuts of diamonds, heart cuts are not as popular for engagement and wedding rings, they are usually given for less formal occasions such as birthday's, anniversaries and of course Valentines Day.

When purchasing a heart shaped cut diamond it is important to check the overall quality of the diamond including how it is cut, the color and clarity. It is also a good idea to avoid heart cut diamonds that are too flat. A flat cut diamond will dull the brilliance of the stone making it less desirable. If you are in the market for a unique, fancy cut diamond, heart cut diamonds are a great way to benefit from a diamond that has brilliance and fire as well as a unique cut. Diamond Manufacturers recommends you to choose a plump stone with a well-defined outline and even shoulders, which has a minimum colour of G, clarity of SI1 and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of premium quality heart shape diamonds.

If you are looking for a good quality heart shape diamond but have a tight budget look for a stone with a minimum colour of H, clarity of SI2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of heart shape diamonds with the best balance of quality and cost.

Heart              

L ÷ W =  0.80  0.90  1.00  1.10  1.25    

Preferred ratio: 1.00    

Most heart-shaped diamonds are cut to a 1.00 ratio (or a range of approximately 0.90 to 1.10)., and this ratio usually is most pleasing to the eye. Some heart-shaped diamonds may be slightly longer than wide, with a ratio of 1.10 or 1.20.

Asscher

 

The asscher cut diamond is a stepped square cut, often called the "square emerald cut" and like an emerald cut, the Asscher has cropped corners. It is important to note that there are no typical proportions for the Asscher cut diamond because they are not very common. In fact, original Asscher cut diamonds are very rare and not usually found in the retail market. Until recently, very few online jewellers carried Asscher cut diamonds. But the Asscher cut has rapidly gained popularity as it was featured on the television show "Sex & and the City" and stars such as Kate Hudson have received Asscher-cuts as engagement rings. Due to the increased popularity, more and more online jewellers are carrying this fashionable cut -- however, the range of diamonds tends to be smaller than for other more common cuts.

The standard number of facets of an asscher cut diamond is 72. The asscher cut's wide step facets and deep clipped corners make the gemstone resemble an octagon.The Asscher cut is designed to draw the eye into the diamond and as such, you should always select the highest quality stone you can afford. Diamond Manufacturers recommends you to select an asscher cut diamond with a minimum colour of H, clarity of VS2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of premium quality oval cut diamonds.

If you are looking for a good quality asscher cut diamond but have a tight budget look for a stone with a minimum colour of I, clarity of SI2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of asscher cut diamonds with the best balance of quality and cost.

Asscher          

L ÷ W =  1.00  1.10  1.25    

Preferred ratio: 1.00    

 Asscher cut diamonds are usually cut to a 1.00 ratio (or a range between 1.00 to 1.05). This square outline gives the cut the symmetrical outline the Asscher cut is known for.

Cushion

The cushion is an antique style of cut that looks like a cross between an Old Mine Cut (a deep cut with large facets that was common in the late 19th and the early 20th centuries) and a modern oval cut. This shape is also sometimes referred to as the pillow-cut or the candlelight diamond (a reference to cuts designed prior to electric lights, when diamonds sparkled in the light provided by candles).

This cut is not as fiery or brilliant as many of the newer cuts, but it has a marvelously romantic and classic look and definitely stands out from the crowd of round brilliants. The standard number of facets of an cushion cut diamond is 58.

Standards for cushion cut diamonds vary widely and more than with most contemporary cuts, much is left to personal taste. So you will easily find cushion cuts that are nearly square, long rectangles, and with varying size tables and depth percentages.

Because of the large open facets of the cushion cut, opt for the highest clarity and color your budget affords. Diamond Manufacturers recommends a cushion cut diamond with a minimum colour of H, clarity of VS2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of premium quality cushion cut diamonds.

If you are looking for a good quality cushion cut diamond but have a tight budget look for a stone with a minimum colour of I, clarity of SI2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of cushion cut diamonds with the best balance of quality and cost.

Cushion              

L ÷ W =  1.10  1.20  1.30  1.40  1.50    

Preferred ratio: 1.30    

Cushion cut diamonds can be cut to a square outline of 1.00 (or a range between 1.00 to 1.05), or an elongated outline with a 1.30 ratio as the ideal (or a range of approximately 1.20 to 1.40).

Radiant

A radiant cut diamond is a squarish cut diamond that is characterized by trimmed corners. This square or rectangular cut combines the elegance of the emerald shape diamond with the brilliance of the round, and its 70 facets (25 on the crown, 8 on the girdle and 37 on the pavilvion) maximize the effect of its color refraction. Because of its design, this cut requires more weight to be directed toward the diamond's depth in order to maximize brilliance. Depth percentages of 70% to 78% are not uncommon.

Radiant cut diamonds are great for engagement rings and wedding rings, as well as other high quality jewelry. If you are interested in squarish or rectangular diamond cuts, you might also want to consider the cushion cut diamond, emerald cut diamond and the Asscher cut diamond.

Due to its large facet, it is important to consider a stone that has a great color and clarity rating. Like other similar cuts, the radiant cut diamond will show inclusions and imperfections very easily so make sure the stone is of the right quality before purchasing. Diamond Manufacturers recommends you to select an asscher cut diamond with a minimum colour of G, clarity of VS2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of premium quality oval cut diamonds.

If you are looking for a good quality radiant cut diamond but have a tight budget look for a stone with a minimum colour of H, clarity of SI2, and very good cut. Click here to view our selection of radiant cut diamonds with the best balance of quality and cost.

Radiant              

L ÷ W =  1.10  1.20  1.40  1.60  1.80    

Preferred ratio: 1.40    

 

About the Author

Diamond Manufacturers provides value on engagement rings, diamond rings and stud earrings, in addition to offering a Loose Diamond Comparison List, and a Guidance Centre with diamond information.

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