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Mapp Gas
How to make lampwork beads
Making lampwork beads is actually a form of 'glassblowing', though in this case there is no actual working of the glass by 'blowing'. As it is unlikely that you will have the tools to get started just lying around the garage, so here is a list of what you will need to acquire to get started:
* Torch and gas hoses
* Fuel tank(s) (either MAPP gas or propane/oxygen set- this choice will depend on your torch)
* Kiln or annealing oven
* Mandrels
* Bead release
* Glass rod
* Shaping tools (graphite and brass implements work best as they will not melt)
* Long nose pliers (for stringer work)
The process is simple in theory; one simply heats the glass rod at the edges of the torch flame, and slowly works towards the center of the flame until the glass is nearly molten and applies it to a mandrel (this is a long, steel rod) that has been treated with bead release (otherwise the bead would be permanently melted to the mandrel upon cooling). The mandrel is rotated to collect evenly distribute glass from the rod. When the desired size and colors are achieved, the beadmaker can add decorative elements through the addition of ground up glass or stringer (more on this later). When the bead is finished, it is allowed to cool to the point where it is no longer glowing, and placed in the kiln or annealing oven to cool very slowly. The annealing process is very important as it removes stresses that working molten glass causes in your beads. Skipping the annealing process will result in extremely fragile glass beads that break under the slightest pressure. Once the annealing process is finished, a simple cleaning of the beads will make them ready for artisan use.
Stringing- the process of creating glass strings by pulling molten glass with a pair of pliers to create a thin strand of glass.
Remember to be extremely careful throughout this whole process, as you will be working glass at extremely high temperatures, so be sure to use glass rods of adequate lengths- at least four inches between your hand and the heated end of the rod should keep you safe, though more length is always recommended. Also, keep in mind that hot glass looks like cold glass, so be mindful of where you place the glass rods you have been working.
About the Author
To learn more about lampwork beads checkout my website.
How does intense heat not damage the inside of valves while soldering them?
When soldering valves onto copper pipes with MAPP gas, how does the heat not damage the internals of the valves? Some have rubber washers (like the small shutoff valves under the sink), and the ball valves that go onto pipes (like the one for the water heater) has nylon parts in it to seal against leakage. Someone at Home Depot said that valves are easy to damage while soldering, but I've soldered a few dozen of them and never had any trouble.
The person at Home Depot that told you that was both right and wrong. For *normal* soldering, even with MAPP gas, the temperatures won't be hot enough to harm anything if you do it correctly. If, however, you point the heat at the main body of the valve and leave it there long enough, you CAN get it hot enough to cause damage to the seals, but you almost have to TRY to do that. When silver soldering or brazing, you do indeed run into temperatures that ARE harmful to the seals, but that is generally done with an Oxy-Acc set up. When I do that type of work, I remove all the parts from the main body of the valve, braze the body, and only after it cools do I put the *innards* back in. For normal soldering though, it isn't necessary, so what the guy said is true in that you CAN hurt the valve, but like I said, you half to be almost TRYING to, or not paying attention at any rate.
Al
MAPP GAS with 1260 degree Centigrade